
Beach · Upolu
Return to Paradise Beach
Photo: Stephen Glauser, uploaded by Teinesavaii / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)
White-sand lagoon beach at Lefaga that took its name from the 1953 Gary Cooper film shot here. Reef just offshore for snorkelling, picnic fales for shade and a long stretch of empty sand that feels worlds away from Apia despite being only an hour's drive. Best at low tide for tide pools, high tide for swimming. Small village fee at the gate.
Also known as: Lefaga, Lefaga Beach, Matareva, Matareva Beach, Return to Paradise, Return to Paradise Lefaga
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Featured in our guides
Dedicated guide
Visiting Return to Paradise Beach — full guide
Stays nearby, activities that include Return to Paradise Beach, practical info — all on one page.
Best stays in Upolu, Samoa
Upolu is where most Samoa trips start. Faleolo International Airport, the capital Apia, and the bulk of the country's resort-tier accommodation all sit here. The south coast (Lalomanu, Lotofaga, Siumu) is the postcard side; the north has Apia and the working harbour.
Best beach fales in Samoa: traditional open-air stays
The beach fale (pronounced FAH-leh) is Samoa's signature stay — a traditional thatched-roof hut, open to the ocean breeze, on the sand. You sleep on a mattress with a mosquito net, the family runs the kitchen, and dinner is whatever was caught that day. It's the cheapest and most authentic way to stay in Samoa.
Things to do in Samoa: tours, activities, and day trips
Samoa rewards travellers who get out of the resort. Most of the iconic photos (To-Sua, Lalomanu, Alofaaga blowholes, the canopy walk) are 60–90-minute drives from wherever you're staying — and the easiest way to see them is on a guided tour with a local operator who knows the village fees and the best swimming windows.
Best beaches in Samoa
Samoa's beaches are the kind that consistently top "world's best" lists and somehow stay uncrowded. Most are on customary land — you'll pay a small village fee (typically WST 5–20) at the gate, which goes back into maintaining the site. Below: the ones our travellers come back about.
Stay nearby on Upolu
Return to Paradise Beach at a glance
Return to Paradise Beach is a white-sand lagoon beach in Lefaga, Upolu, named after the 1953 Gary Cooper film shot there. The beach features a reef just offshore for snorkelling, picnic fales for shade, and a long stretch of empty sand despite being only an hour's drive from Apia. Best visited at low tide to explore tide pools, though high tide offers the best swimming. A small village fee applies at the gate.
- Good to know
- A small village fee is payable at the gate.
- About
- White-sand lagoon beach named after the 1953 Gary Cooper film shot here. A reef lies just offshore for snorkelling, and picnic fales provide shade along a long stretch of quiet sand.
- Best time to visit
- Year-round; calmest at morning low tide for exploring tide pools. High tide is best for swimming.
- Getting there
- Located in Lefaga on Upolu, roughly an hour's drive from Apia.
- What to expect
- A reef for snorkelling just offshore, picnic fales for shade, tide pools at low tide, and a calm swimming beach at high tide.
About Return to Paradise Beach
Is there an entry fee?
Most Samoan village beaches charge a small access fee per car or per person (typically WST 5-20), paid to the village landowner on arrival. The fee supports the village — bring small notes.
When is the best time to visit?
Mornings before midday are calmer with better visibility for swimming and snorkelling. Afternoons can bring stronger winds and chop on more exposed coasts.
Is it safe to swim?
Most reef-protected lagoons are calm and safe at all tides; reef-edge beaches can have strong currents at low and changing tides. Check with the village or your accommodation about conditions on the day, and avoid swimming alone.
What facilities should I expect?
Some beaches with active access fees provide basic toilet huts and shaded shelter; many quieter ones offer parking only. Bring your own water, snacks, and reef-safe sunscreen.
Last updated 26 July 2026





