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Return to Paradise Beach

Beach · Upolu

Return to Paradise Beach

Photo: Stephen Glauser, uploaded by Teinesavaii / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)

White-sand lagoon beach at Lefaga that took its name from the 1953 Gary Cooper film shot here. Reef just offshore for snorkelling, picnic fales for shade and a long stretch of empty sand that feels worlds away from Apia despite being only an hour's drive. Best at low tide for tide pools, high tide for swimming. Small village fee at the gate.

Also known as: Lefaga, Lefaga Beach, Matareva, Matareva Beach, Return to Paradise, Return to Paradise Lefaga

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Return to Paradise Beach at a glance

Return to Paradise Beach is a white-sand lagoon beach in Lefaga, Upolu, named after the 1953 Gary Cooper film shot there. The beach features a reef just offshore for snorkelling, picnic fales for shade, and a long stretch of empty sand despite being only an hour's drive from Apia. Best visited at low tide to explore tide pools, though high tide offers the best swimming. A small village fee applies at the gate.

Good to know
A small village fee is payable at the gate.
About
White-sand lagoon beach named after the 1953 Gary Cooper film shot here. A reef lies just offshore for snorkelling, and picnic fales provide shade along a long stretch of quiet sand.
Best time to visit
Year-round; calmest at morning low tide for exploring tide pools. High tide is best for swimming.
Getting there
Located in Lefaga on Upolu, roughly an hour's drive from Apia.
What to expect
A reef for snorkelling just offshore, picnic fales for shade, tide pools at low tide, and a calm swimming beach at high tide.

About Return to Paradise Beach

Is there an entry fee?

Most Samoan village beaches charge a small access fee per car or per person (typically WST 5-20), paid to the village landowner on arrival. The fee supports the village — bring small notes.

When is the best time to visit?

Mornings before midday are calmer with better visibility for swimming and snorkelling. Afternoons can bring stronger winds and chop on more exposed coasts.

Is it safe to swim?

Most reef-protected lagoons are calm and safe at all tides; reef-edge beaches can have strong currents at low and changing tides. Check with the village or your accommodation about conditions on the day, and avoid swimming alone.

What facilities should I expect?

Some beaches with active access fees provide basic toilet huts and shaded shelter; many quieter ones offer parking only. Bring your own water, snacks, and reef-safe sunscreen.

Last updated 26 July 2026